Completing your TVRRUG
Running the Wires
Some of us have decided to braid the motor wires, to make them neater and easier to handle. Credit is claimed by Ian Statford (aka droftarts, ginjaian), although this has yet to be challenged in court.
Now using the transparent plastic sheathing, fix the motor wires along the frame. By doing this now, you will be able to cut the motor wires to the correct length. The hot end thermistor, heater and microswitch wires are run up the front A frame and the motor wires up the rear frame to reduce interference. (The rear of the frame is the side with the Y-axis motor.)
Crimping the Motor Wires
Tip!: If you need more crimp pins, then they can be purchased from Maplin in strips of 10, the part number is YW25C and you need 32 in total. The following link is for the parent item, but if you scroll down the box on the right you will see the correct item "0.1in Skt Terminals" - [ Maplin Store ]. If you can't find them at Maplin MOLEX - 08-50-0032.(PACK 100) - 2.5MM PITCH KK CRIMP, -22-30 AWG from CPC may be suitable.
Fitting your Microswitches
Strip the insulation from the ends of the microswitch cable.
Tin the ends of the wires with solder and solder to the microswitches, taking care to solder the right way around, according to the wiring diagram.
I suggest you use the solid colour cable for the end connector, on the end nearest the microswitch itself, and the other cable for the middle connector.
The connector furthest from the microswitch is unused. Now push the heatshrink over the soldered joints, and apply heat (hot air gun, wider part of tip of soldering iron etc).
You will notice that the microswitch holder is designed to take the microswitch only from one side.
Pass the other end of the microswitch cable through the microswitch holder, and slide into place - it is a necessarily tight fit.
At the other end of the microswitch cable, add crimp pins and insert into the 3 pin cream connector, as shown in the wiring diagram, note it requires a 3 pin connector not 2 pin as you could be forgiven for assuming.
Important: you should slide the microswitch holder onto the smooth rod, do NOT attempt to clip it on, there is a high likelihood of breakage.
Insert the M3 nut and bolt, and slide the microswitches onto the smooth rods.
- Z-axis: The Z-axis microswitch clips onto one of the Z-axis smooth rods, logically you would chose the side that you will be having the electronics, in order to minimise cable run. You should position the Z-axis microswitch at the bottom of the chosen smooth rod, the exact position can be adjusted later.
- X-axis: The X-axis microswitch clips onto one of the X-axis smooth rods, it doesn't matter which one. You should position the X-axis microswitch at the left of the chosen smooth rod, the exact position can be adjusted later.
- Y-axis: The Y-axis microswitch clips onto one of the Y-axis smooth rods, logically you would chose the side that you will be having the electronics, in order to minimise cable run. You should position the Y-axis microswitch at the rear of the chosen smooth rod, the exact position can be adjusted later.
Trim insulation off the ends of the cables and solder them into the two large holes at the side of the heated bed, with the black cable on the left and the green cable on the right.
Cut appropriate lengths of PTFE and add to thermistor, as described in the Print Head: Hot End instructions. Return to this point, once that is complete.
Once the thermistor is attached to the thermistor cable, then the thermistor should be taped into the central hole of the heated bed from underneath, using Kapton tape.
It should very slightly protrude through the hole on top, so that you can feel it as you pass your finger over the hole.
When the glass is in place, it will naturally be pushed down slightly, thus ensuring a good contact between the glass and the thermistor.